Cosmetics (also
known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of
the human body. They are generally mixtures of chemical
compounds, some being derived from natural sources and
many being synthetics.[1]
In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA),
which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to
the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or
altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions.This
broad definition includes any material intended for use as a component of a
cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from
this category.
The word cosmetics derives from the Greek κοσμητικὴ τέχνη (kosmetikē
tekhnē), meaning "technique of dress and ornament", from
κοσμητικός (kosmētikos), "skilled in ordering or arranging and that from κόσμος (kosmos),
meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".
The first archeological
evidence of cosmetics comes from the hollowed out tombs of the Ancient Egyptian
pharaohs.Archaeological evidence of cosmetics dates
at least from ancient Egypt and Greece. According to one source,
early major developments include:
The Ancient Greeks also
used cosmetics. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament, such as in 2 Kings 9:30,
where Jezebel painted her
eyelids—approximately 840 BC—and in the book of Esther, where beauty treatments are described.
Cosmetic use was frowned
upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup
improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.
During the sixteenth
century, the personal attributes of the women who used make-up created a demand
for the product among the upper class. Of the major cosmetics
firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French
Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane
Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is
traded publicly). The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were joined
by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.
Beauty products are now
widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers who have more recently
been joined online by established outlets, including the major department
stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers.
Although modern make-up has
been traditionally used mainly by women, an increasing number of men are using
cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial
features. Concealed is commonly used by
self-conscious men. Cosmetics brands release products especially tailored for
men, and men are increasingly using them.
Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup,towelettes, permanent waves, colored
contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of
products. A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers
primarily to coloring products intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many
manufacturers distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics.
Cosmetics that are meant to
be used on the face and eye area are usually applied with a brush or the
fingertips.
Most cosmetics are
distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
·
Primer come in formulas to suit
individual skin conditions. Most are meant to reduce the appearance of pore
size, prolong the wear of makeup, and allow for a smoother application of
makeup, and are applied before foundation.
·
Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner, lip
primer, and lip boosters Lipsticks are intended to add color and
texture to the lips and often come in a wide range of colors, as well as
finishes such as matte, satin and lustre. Lip stains have a water or gel base
and may contain alcohol to help the product stay on. They temporarily saturate
the lips with a dye. Usually designed to be waterproof, the product may come
with an applicator brush, rollerball, or be applied
with a finger. Lip glosses are intended to add shine to the lips and may add a
tint of color, as well as being scented or flavored. Lip balms are most often
used to moisturize and protect the lips. They often contain SPF
protection.
·
Concealer makeup covers imperfections
of the skin. Concealer is often used for any extra coverage needed to cover
blemishes, undereye circles, and other imperfections. Concealer is often
thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting, more
detailed coverage. Some formulations are meant only for the eye or only for the
face. This product can also be used for contouring the face like ones nose,
cheekbones, and jaw line.
·
Foundation is used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration.
Usually a liquid, cream, or powder, as well as most recently a light and fluffy
mousse. Foundation provides coverage from sheer to full. Foundation primer can be
applied before or after foundation to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers come
in powder or liquid form to be applied before foundation as a base, while other
primers come as a spray to be applied after the foundation to help the make-up
last longer.
·
Face powder is sets the foundation,
giving it a matte finish, and to conceal
small flaws or blemishes. Tinted face powders may be worn alone as a light
foundation.
·
Rouge, blush or blusher is cheek coloring to bring
out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more defined. Rouge
comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms.
·
Contour
powder/creams are used to define the face. They can give the illusion of a
slimmer face or to modify a face shape in other desired ways. Usually a few
shades darker than one's own skin tone and matte in finish, contour products
create the illusion of depth. A darker toned foundation/concealer can be used
instead of contour products for a more natural look.
·
Highlight,
used to draw attention to the high points of the face as well as to add glow,
comes in liquid, cream, and powder forms. It often contains a substance to
provide shimmer. A lighter toned foundation/concealer can be used instead of
highlight to create a more natural look.
·
Bronzer gives skin a bit of color
by adding a golden or bronze glow, as well as being used for contouring. It comes in either matte,
semi matte/satin, or shimmer finishes.
·
Mascara is used to darken,
lengthen, thicken, or draw attention to the eyelashes. It is available in
natural colors such as brown and black, but also comes in bolder colors such as
blue, pink, or purple. Some mascaras include glitter flecks. There are many
formulas, including waterproof versions for those prone to allergies or sudden tears. It is
often used after an eyelash curler and mascara primer. Many
mascaras have components to help lashes appear longer and thicker.
The
chin mask known as chutti for Kathakali, a performing art in Kerala, India, is considered the thickest makeup applied for
any art form.
·
Nail polish is used to color the fingernails and toenails. Transparent, colorless
versions may strengthen nails or as a top or base coat to protect the nail or
polish.
·
Setting spray is keeps applied makeup
intact for long periods. An alternative to setting spray is setting powder,
which may be either pigmented or translucent.
·
False eyelashes are frequently used when
extravagant and exaggerated eyelashes are desired. Their basic design usually
consists of human hair or synthetic materials attached to a thin cloth-like
band, which is applied with an eyelash glue to the lashline. Designs vary from
short, natural-looking lashes to extremely long, wispy, rainbow-colored lashes.
Rhinestones, gems, and even feathers and lace occur on some false eyelash
designs.
Cosmetics can be also
described by the physical composition of the product. Cosmetics can be liquid
or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and
loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or sticks.
Makeup remover is a product
used to remove the makeup products applied on the skin. It cleans the skin
before other procedures, like applying bedtime lotion.
Skin care products can fall
under the general category of cosmetics. These are products used to improve the
appearance and health of skin, formulated for different types of skin and
associated characteristics. Skin care products include cleansers, facial masks,
toners, moisturizers, sunscreen, tanning oils and lotions, skin lighteners,
serums and exfoliants.
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Skin types
There are four basic skin
types and two skin conditions. Different skin types and skin conditions may
benefit from different cosmetic care.
Normal skin
This type of skin has a
fine, even and smooth surface due to its ideal balance between oil and moisture
content. Normal skin is therefore neither greasy nor dry. People who have
normal skin have small, barely-visible pores. Their skin usually appears clear
and does not frequently develop spots and blemishes. Normal skin needs minimal
and gentle treatment. Even though the skin is considered normal and problem
free, it still require maintenance. If maintenance is not kept then the skin
may not appear normal anymore.
Dry skin
Dry skin tends to have a
parched appearance and tends to flake easily. Dry skin is prone to wrinkles and
lines due to its inability to retain moisture, as well as an inadequate
production of sebum by sebaceous glands. Dry skin often has problems in cold
weather, which dries it out further. Constant cosmetic protection in the form
of a moisturizer by day and a moisture-rich cream by night is essential. It is
important not to over-exfoliate, even in cases of extreme flaking.
Over-exfoliating dries the skin further and may harm or damage the skin. The
skin should be exfoliated gently by using sugar, rice bran or mild acids,
although they should not be used more frequently than once per week to avoid
causing irritation and excessive dryness.
Oily skin
As its names implies, this
type of skin surface is slightly to moderately greasy, which is caused by the
over secretion of sebum. The excess oil on the surface of the skin causes dirt
and dust from the environment to adhere to it. Oily skin is usually prone to
blackheads, whiteheads, spots and pimples. It needs to be cleansed thoroughly
every day, especially in hot or humid weather. Moisturizing with an oil-free,
water-based and non-comedogenic moisturizer is required in addition.
Exfoliation is necessary, but over-exfoliation can cause irritation and
increase in oil production; exfoliants that contain fruit acids are
particularly helpful, and fine-grained exfoliants may help to clear blocked
pores, discouraging breakouts and improving the skin's appearance.
Combination skin
This is the common type of
skin. As the name suggests, it is a combination of oily and dry or normal skin,
where certain areas of the face are oily and the others dry. The oily parts are
usually found on a central panel, called the T–Zone, consisting of the
forehead, nose and chin. The dry areas usually consist of the cheeks and the
areas around the eyes and mouth. Each part of the face should be treated
according to its skin type. There are skin care products made especially for those
who have combination skin; these contain ingredients that cater to both skin
types.
Skin conditions
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is a common
skin condition that has a tendency to react to many potential triggers with
irritation, redness, stinging or burning, flaking, lumpiness, and rashes. A
skin condition changing into sensitive normally causes from our immune system
disorders or the changes of health conditions. The most common causes of
irritation are chemical dyes and fragrances, soaps, some flower and spice oils,
shaving creams, tanning lotions or spray tans, changes in temperature,
excessive cleansing or exfoliating, waxing, threading, shaving, and bleaching.
People with sensitive skin should try to avoid products with unnecessary
fragrances or dyes, and generally avoid using products that cause irritation.
Sensitive skin is typically dry, but can be oily, normal, or combination as
well.
Acne-prone skin
Acne is a common skin condition that occurs when
skin pores become clogged and bacteria settles in, causing the pores to become
infected. Several factors can contribute to developing acne such as oily skin,
hormones, diet, skin care products, and even your skin care routine. Acne is
treatable and even prevented by changing the lifestyle and diet in our everyday
routine, and applying the right skin care products.
General skin care routines
Cleansing
Cleansing is the first
essential step to any daily skin care routine. Cleansers are generally applied
to wet skin over the face and sometimes the neck, avoiding the eyes and lips.
Cleansing the face once per
day is typically adequate for normal or dry skins. However, a mild cleanser
should be used at night if makeup has been worn to remove any excess dirt or
oil. Oily skins should be cleansed more frequently, at least twice per day.
Water-based, gentle cleansers are ideal for all skin types, though particularly
acne-prone skin may require medicated cleansers containing benzoyl peroxide or
salicylic acid to discourage acne. While soap can be used as a cleanser, it
should be avoided in cases of dry and sensitive skins; many alternatives are
available. Oil-based cleansers have become particularly popular with oily skin,
as they are very gentle and do not over-dry the skin, but still effectively
remove dirt and makeup. It is important to cleanse before applying makeup,
regardless of skin type, as this helps to create a clean surface for makeup
application. Many cleansers are suitable for use as a makeup remover, but a
proper makeup remover is preferable, particularly for the removal of eye
makeup.
Masks
Face masks are treatments
applied to the skin for a period, then removed. Typically, they are applied to
a dry, cleansed face, avoiding the eyes and lips.
There are many kinds of
face masks available, which typically fall into one or more of the following
categories:
·
Clay-based
masks use kaolin clay or fuller's earth to transport essential oils and
chemicals to the skin, and are typically left on until completely dry. As the
clay dries, it absorbs excess oil and dirt from the surface of the skin and may
help to clear blocked pores or draw comedones to the surface. Because of its
drying actions, clay-based masks should only be used on oily skins.
·
Peel
masks are typically gel-like in consistency, and contain acids or exfoliating
agents to help exfoliate the skin, along with other ingredients to hydrate,
discourage wrinkles, or treat uneven skin tone. They are left on to dry and
then gently peeled off. They should be avoided by people with dry skin, as they
tend to be very drying.
·
Sheet
masks are a relatively new product that are becoming extremely popular in Asia.
Sheet masks consist of a thin cotton or fiber sheet with holes cut out for the
eyes and lips and cut to fit the contours of the face, onto which serums and
skin treatments are brushed in a thin layer; the sheets may be soaked in the
treatment. Masks are available to suit almost all skin types and skin
complaints. Sheet masks are quicker, less messy, and require no specialized
knowledge or equipment for their use compared to other types of face masks, but
they may be difficult to find and purchase outside Asia
Exfoliants
Exfoliants are products
that help slough off dry, dead skin cells to improve the skin's appearance.
This is achieved either by using acids or other chemicals to loosen old skin
cells, or abrasive substances to physically scrub them off. Exfoliation can
even out patches of rough skin, improve circulation to the skin, clear blocked
pores to discourage acne and improve the appearance and healing of scars.
Exfoliants should be applied to wet, cleansed skin, avoiding the eye area;
abrasive exfoliants or scrubs should then be rubbed into the skin in a circular
motion for at least 30 seconds. Dry skin should only be exfoliated in spots
with severe flaking, and no more than once per week; oily skins may be able to
tolerate twice weekly exfoliation. Signs of over-exfoliation include sore, dry
and irritated or reddened skin and excessive dryness or oiliness.
Chemical exfoliants may
include citric acid (from citrus fruits), acetic acid (from vinegar), malic
acid (from fruit), glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid. They may be
liquids or gels, and may or may not contain an abrasive to remove old skin
cells afterwards. Abrasive exfoliants include gels, creams or lotions, as well
as physical objects. Loofahs, microfibre cloths, natural sponges or brushes may
be used to exfoliate skin, simply by rubbing them over the face in a circular
motion. Gels, creams or lotions may contain an acid to encourage dead skin
cells to loosen, and an abrasive such as beads, sea salt, sugar, ground nut
shells, rice bran or ground apricot kernels to scrub the dead cells off the
skin. Salt and sugar scrubs tend to be the harshest, while scrubs containing
beads or rice bran are typically very gentle.
Toning
Toners are used after cleansing
the skin to freshen it up and remove any traces of cleanser, mask or makeup, as
well to help restore the skin's natural pH. They are usually applied to a
cotton pad and wiped over the skin, but can be sprayed onto the skin from a
spray bottle.
Toners typically contain
alcohol, water, and herbal extracts or other chemicals depending on skin type.
Toners containing alcohol are quite astringent, and usually targeted at oily
skins. Dry or normal skin should be treated with alcohol-free toners. Witch
hazel solution is a popular toner for all skin types, but many other products
are available. Many toners contain salicylic acid and/or benzoyl peroxide. These types of toners
are targeted at oily skin types, as well as acne-prone skin.
Moisturizing
Moisturizers are creams or
lotions that hydrate the skin and help it to retain moisture; they may contain essential
oils, herbal extracts or chemicals to assist with oil control or reducing
irritation. Night creams are typically more hydrating than day creams, but may
be too thick or heavy to wear during the day, hence their name. Tinted
moisturizers contain a small amount of foundation, which can provide light
coverage for minor blemishes or to even out skin tones. They are usually
applied with the fingertips or a cotton pad to the entire face, avoiding the
lips and area around the eyes.
All skin types need moisturizing.
Moisturizer helps prevent flaking and dryness, and may help to delay the
formation of wrinkles. People with dry skin should choose oil-based
moisturizers with ingredients to help the skin retain moisture and protect it
from dryness, heat or cold in the environment. People with normal skin can
choose from a wide variety of moisturizers, but light lotions or gels are
typically all that is required. Water-based, low-oil and non-comedogenic
moisturizers should be used on oily skin; medicated moisturizers containing tea
tree extracts or fruit enzymes can help to control oil production or treat
acne.
Eyes require a different
kind of moisturizer compared with the rest of the face. The skin around the
eyes is extremely thin and sensitive, and is often the first area to show signs
of ageing. Eye creams are typically very light lotions or gels, and are usually
very gentle; some may contain ingredients such as caffeine or Vitamin K to
reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. Eye creams or gels should be
applied over the entire eye area with a finger, using a patting motion.
Protecting
Sun protection is an
important aspect of skin care. The sun can cause extreme damage to the skin,
and not just only in the form of sunburns and skin cancer. Exposure to UVA and
UVB radiation can cause patches of uneven skin tone and dry out the skin. This
can reduce the skin's elasticity and encourage sagging and wrinkle formation.
It is important to make use of sunscreen to protect the skin from sun damage;
sunscreen should be applied at least 20 minutes before exposure, and should be
re-applied every four hours. Sunscreen should be applied to all areas of the
skin that will be exposed to sunlight, and at least a tablespoon (25 ml) should
be applied to each limb, the face, chest, and back, to ensure thorough
coverage. Many tinted moisturizers, foundations and primers now contain some
form of SPF.
Sunscreens may come in the
form of creams, gels or lotions; their SPF number indicates their
effectiveness in protecting the skin from the sun's radiation. There are
sunscreens available to suit every skin type; in particular, those with oily
skin should choose non-comodegenic sunscreens; those with dry skins should
choose sunscreens with moisturizers to help keep skin hydrated, and those with
sensitive skin should choose unscented, hypoallergenic sunscreen and spot-test
in an inconspicuous place (such as the inside of the elbow or behind the ear)
to ensure that it does not irritate the skin.
.
Organic and natural
ingredients
Once a certified organic products are becoming more mainstream. Even though many cosmetic
products are regulated, health concerns persist regarding the presence of
harmful chemicals in these products. Aside from color additives, cosmetic products
and their ingredients are not subject to regulation prior to their release on
the market. Many new products are
released every season, often after only slight testing. Many cosmetic companies
claim to produce "all natural" and "organic" products.
Products claimed to be organic should be certified "USDA Organic".
Mineral makeup
The term "mineral
makeup" applies to a category of face makeup, including foundation, eye
shadow, blush, and bronzer, made with loose, dry mineral powders. Lipsticks,
liquid foundations, and other liquid cosmetics, as well as compressed makeups
such as eye shadow and blush in compacts, are often called mineral makeup if
they have the same primary ingredients as dry mineral makeups. However, liquid
makeups must contain preservatives and compressed makeups must contain binders,
which dry mineral makeups do not.
Ingredients
The main ingredients in
mineral makeups are usually coverage pigments, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which are
physical sunscreens.
Other main ingredients
include mica (Sericite) and pigmenting minerals, such as iron oxide, tin oxide and magnesium myristate.
Mineral makeup usually does
not contain synthetic fragrances, preservatives, parabens, mineral oil, and
chemical dyes. For this reason, many dermatologists consider mineral makeup to
be purer and kinder to the skin than makeup that contains those ingredients.
However, some mineral
makeups contain Bismuth
oxychloride,
which can be irritating to the skin of sensitive individuals. Others contain talc, over which there is some controversy because of its
comedogenic tendencies (tendency to clog pores and therefore cause acne) and
because some people are sensitive to talc.
Benefits
Because titanium dioxide
and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties, mineral makeups with those
ingredients can have a calming effect on the skin, which is particularly
important for those who suffer from inflammatory problems such as rosacea. Zinc
oxide is anti-microbial,[17] so mineral makeups can be
beneficial for people with acne.
Mineral makeup is
noncomedogenic (as long as it does not contain talc) and offers a mild amount
of sun protection (because of the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).[
Because they do not contain
liquid ingredients, mineral makeups can last in their containers indefinitely
as long as the user does not contaminate them with other liquid or fingertips.
The manufacture of
cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational
corporations that originated in the early 20th century,
but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of
businesses. The world’s largest cosmetic companies are The L'Oréal Group, The Procter & Gamble Company, Unilever, Shiseido Company, Limited and Estée
Lauder Companies, Inc. The
market volume of the cosmetics industry in the US, Europe, and Japan is about
EUR 70B/y, according to a 2005 publication. In the United States, the cosmetic
industry's size was US$42.8 billion in 2008. In Germany, the cosmetic industry generated €12.6 billion of retail
sales in 2008 which makes the German
cosmetic industry the third largest in the world, after Japan and the United
States. It has been shown that in Germany this industry grew nearly 5 percent
in one year, from 2007 to 2008. German exports in this industry reached
€5.8 billion in 2008, whereas imports of cosmetics totaled €3 billion. The main
countries that export cosmetics to Germany are France, Switzerland, the United
States and Italy, and they mainly consist of makeup and fragrances or perfumes
for women.
The Italian cosmetic
industry is also an important player in the European cosmetic market. Although
not as large as in other European countries, the cosmetic industry in Italy was
estimated to reach €9 billion in 2007. The Italian cosmetic industry is
dominated by hair and body products and not makeup as in many
other European countries. In Italy, hair and body products make up
approximately 30% of the cosmetic market. Makeup and facial care, however, are
the most common cosmetic products exported to the United States.
Due to the popularity of
cosmetics, especially fragrances and perfumes, many designers who are not
necessarily involved in the cosmetic industry came up with perfumes carrying
their names. Moreover, some actors and singers (such as Celine Dion) have their own perfume
line. Designer perfumes are, like any other designer products, the most
expensive in the industry as the consumer pays for the product and the brand.
Famous Italian fragrances are produced by Giorgio Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, and others.
Recently, Procter & Gamble, which sells CoverGirl and Dolce & Gabbana makeup, funded a study concluding that makeup
makes women seem more competent. Due to the source of funding, the quality of
this Boston University study is questioned.
The cosmetic industry
worldwide seems to be continuously developing, now more than ever with the
advent of the Internet companies. Many famous companies sell their cosmetic
products online also in countries in which they do not have representatives.
Research on the email
marketing of cosmetics to consumers suggests they are goal-oriented with email
content that is seen as useful, motivating recipients to visit a store to test
the cosmetics or talk to sales representatives. Useful content included special
sales offerings and new product information rather than information about
makeup trends.
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